Why does my abaya lift when I raise my arms?

Why a lower armhole gives you less movement

It sounds backwards. A deep armhole feels roomy when you stand still, and ready-made abayas often have deep armholes so one size fits many people. But the deeper the armhole, the further down your side the sleeve is joined. When you lift your arm, the underarm of the sleeve has to rise too, and because it is anchored low on the body, it drags the side seam, and the hem, up after it.

A higher armhole that sits close under the arm, paired with a sleeve whose top (the sleeve cap) is a little lower and wider, lets the arm rise while the body stays where it is. This is why a well-cut jacket often has a higher armhole than you might expect.

There is a trade-off. A tall, narrow sleeve cap looks smooth with the arms down but restricts lifting; a flatter cap moves freely but leaves a few soft folds under the arm when you are at rest. For an everyday abaya, a little give is usually worth those folds.

Wide and cut-on sleeves lift too

Butterfly, batwing and kimono shapes have the sleeve cut in one piece with the body, so there is no armhole at all. Raise your arms and the whole side of the abaya rises with them, which is part of the look on a butterfly abaya and less welcome on a kimono abaya worn for work.

The tailoring answer is an underarm gusset: a small diamond or triangle of fabric set into the seam where the sleeve meets the side. It adds length exactly where the arm needs it and almost disappears when your arms are down. A raglan sleeve is another route, compared in our article on abaya shoulder styles.

Match the symptom to the cause

Try the movements you make every day: reaching up to a shelf, stretching forward to a steering wheel, lifting a child. Where the pull starts tells you what to change.

• The whole hem rises when both arms go up: armhole too low, sleeve cap too tall, or both.
• The front pulls up or the shoulders strain when you reach forward: too little width across the back.
• The sleeve grips the upper arm and drags: the sleeve is too narrow at the biceps.
• Only the sides lift, on a wide-sleeved style: a cut-on sleeve without a gusset.
• The fronts pull apart at the bust: too little room at the bust for the movement, which our guide to shoulder and bust ease explains.

What to measure and ask for in a new abaya

We do not alter existing garments, so this is about getting a new abaya right from the start. Along with the measurements in our guide on how to measure for an abaya, give your upper arm at its widest and your width across the back, and tell us how you use your arms: driving, reaching high shelves, carrying children.

Then ask for what you want in your quote notes: a higher armhole, a gusset, a raglan sleeve or a little more back width. We confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in writing before anything is cut. Our custom abaya page explains how ordering works, and you can send your measurements and a photo to start.

When the abaya arrives, the arm test in our arrival checklist is the quickest way to see how it moves.