Embroidery and fancy work · 4 October 2026 · 3 min read
Cutwork embroidery on kameez hems, sleeves and dupattas
Cutwork embroidery explained: eyelet, Richelieu, scalloped and laser-cut edges, the fabrics that hold them, lining choices, length planning and how to ask for it.
InspirationWhat cutwork is
Cutwork is openwork embroidery: a design is outlined in dense stitches and then small areas of fabric inside the outline are cut away, so part of the pattern is made of holes. The stitched edges, usually buttonhole or close satin stitch, stop the cut fabric from fraying. On Pakistani suits you see it most as a cutwork daman (hem), cutwork sleeves and scalloped dupatta ends, especially on summer lawn.
It looks fresh and light, lets a little air through in hot weather and gives a plain fabric texture without adding any shine or weight.
The main kinds of cutwork
- Simple cutwork: small leaves, petals and teardrops cut out inside stitched outlines.
- Eyelet (broderie anglaise): rows of small round or oval holes, each bound with stitches, classically white on white cotton.
- Richelieu: larger openings bridged by thin stitched bars, so the design looks almost like lace.
- Scalloped edge: the hem itself is embroidered in curves and the fabric outside them is trimmed away, leaving a finished, wavy edge with no hem allowance.
- Laser cut: shapes cut with a laser, which seals the edges of synthetic fabrics by melting them. It is quick and precise, but strictly it is not embroidery.
Fabrics that hold cutwork well
Cutwork needs a crisp, closely woven fabric so the edges stay firm once the holes are cut. Fine lawn, cambric, cotton voile and linen all work well. Loose weaves, very stretchy fabrics and slippery chiffon are harder, because the cut edges can pull out of shape. Laser cutting suits polyester and other synthetics, whose edges seal with heat, rather than cotton, which simply scorches.
Lining: what shows through the holes
Every hole frames whatever is behind it. A matching lining makes the pattern look subtle and tone-on-tone; a contrast lining, such as mint behind white or gold behind black, turns it into a deliberate design feature; no lining at a sleeve hem shows a little skin. Decide on this as part of the design rather than afterwards. Our guide to kameez lining explains where a lining is worth having and where it is not.
Planning length around a cutwork border
A scalloped or cutwork daman is already a finished edge, so there is no hem allowance to play with. The length of the kameez is therefore set from the top: the border stays where it is, and the bodice is cut to suit. That makes accurate measurements especially important; our guide to kameez length for your height helps you choose. Many unstitched suits include a separate cutwork border to attach at the hem or sleeves, and our article on using the borders from your pack explains how those are placed.
Caring for cutwork
Openwork catches on rings, bracelets and velcro, so dress carefully and wash cutwork pieces in a mesh laundry bag on a gentle cycle or by hand. Avoid scrubbing near the edges, dry the garment flat or on a hanger in the shade, and iron from the back on a folded towel so the stitched outlines stay raised. If a buttonhole edge starts to lift, have it secured before the next wash so the hole does not grow.
How to ask about cutwork
If you are sending us an unstitched suit with a cutwork border, Stitching Only covers placing it as part of your outfit, agreed in writing before cutting. If you would like cutwork designed into a new outfit, send a photo of the look you like. Whether it is possible on your fabric and design is confirmed in your written quote, not promised up front; our custom embroidery page explains how embroidery is planned. Ordering from Australia? The Australia fancy work page covers it. Then start a Stitching Only quote.
Common questions
Will cutwork embroidery fray?
Good cutwork is bound with dense buttonhole or satin stitch, so the cut edges should not fray. If you see loose threads at an edge, have them secured before washing so the opening does not spread.
Does a cutwork kameez need lining?
Not always. A lining changes how the holes look and adds modesty, while an unlined cutwork sleeve or hem shows a little skin. Choose a matching lining for a subtle effect or a contrast colour for a bolder one.
Can a cutwork hem be shortened?
A cutwork or scalloped hem is a finished edge with no hem allowance, so the length is best decided before the kameez is cut. The bodice is then cut to the right length above the border.