Embroidery and fancy work · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read

French knot embroidery on a kurta: the dotted look

French knot embroidery on a kurti: how French and bullion knots make raised dots and tiny roses, where they sit comfortably, snagging, washing and how to ask.

Inspiration

Raised dots, made from a single wrapped stitch

French knot embroidery covers a kurta in small raised dots, each one made by wrapping thread around the needle and pulling it back through the fabric to form a tight knot. Massed together the dots make a textured, almost beaded look; spaced out they give a light, scattered sprinkle. Their cousin, the bullion knot, makes tiny coils that can be curved into roses.

Knot work is almost always done by hand, which gives it a soft, slightly irregular charm that machine embroidery rarely copies convincingly.

How the two knots differ

Both are classic hand-embroidery stitches, and both appear in our resham embroidery guide. Here is what sets them apart.

French knot: the needle comes up through the cloth, the thread is wound around it once or twice, and the needle goes back down right beside where it came up. The result is a round dot. Thicker thread, rather than extra wraps, is the usual way to make bigger dots.
Bullion knot: the needle goes in and comes up a short distance away, the thread is wound around it many times, and the coil is pulled snug and laid flat. The result is a small caterpillar-like roll.
Bullion roses: several bullion knots curved around a centre of French knots form a tiny raised rose, popular on necklines and cuffs.

Where knots sit comfortably

Because knots stand up from the fabric, they wear best where nothing rubs against them. Good places include a round neckline or yoke, the front panel of a round-neck kurta, the outer sleeve and the cuffs, and the centres of embroidered flowers. Avoid the underarm, the inner arm, the back of the seat and anywhere a bag strap or seatbelt crosses, where friction flattens and frays them. Knots also add more texture against skin, so dense knot work at the neck is kinder with a lining behind it.

Snagging and washing

Raised loops of thread catch on rings, bracelets, watch straps, hook-and-loop fasteners and pet claws. A snagged knot can usually be eased back with a needle from the back, but a pulled one may loosen its neighbours, so do not cut it on the front.

Turn the kurta inside out and hand wash gently, or use a mesh bag on a delicate cycle.
Do not wring or scrub the knotted areas.
Dry flat or on a hanger in the shade.
Press face down on a folded towel so the knots sink in rather than being crushed.
See looking after embroidered clothes for storage between wears.

Asking for the knotted look

Describe it simply: small raised dots, scattered or packed, in which colours, and where on the kurta. Mention roses if you want bullion knot flowers, and send a photo. We do not promise a particular hand stitch in advance; through custom embroidery we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in your written quote. Our guide to embroidered kurtas made to measure covers the rest of the garment, and you can send your design whenever you like.

Common questions

Can French knots be done by machine?

Some machine designs imitate the texture with clusters of tiny stitches, but true French knots are almost always made by hand. The machine versions look flatter.

Do French knots come undone?

Well-made knots are secure. A knot that was pulled too loose, or one that has snagged badly, can work free, so it is worth securing any loose ones from the back promptly.

Which fabrics suit knot embroidery?

Medium-weight cottons, cambric and linen hold knots well. On very fine lawn or chiffon, dense knots can pull through or pucker the cloth without support behind them.

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