Styles and design · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read
Curved or straight hem: which suits wide hips?
Kurti hem for wide hips: where the hem lands matters more than its shape. How curved and straight hems, slit height and kameez length behave over fuller hips.
InspirationWhere the hem lands matters most
Over wide hips, either a curved or a straight hem can work; the bigger decisions are where the hem falls and where the side slits begin. A hem that stops exactly at the fullest part of the hips draws a line across them, so a kameez ending at mid-thigh or the knee is usually easier. Slits that open at or a little above the fullest point let the front and back panels move over the hips instead of pulling across them.
A curved hem adds a softer outline, which many people with a pear shape like, but a straight hem with the right slits and enough room is just as wearable. The rest of this guide explains the differences so you can choose for yourself.
Curved and straight hems over fuller hips
A curved hem, the gol daman, rises towards the side seams so the centre front and back are the longest points. Seen from the front, the outline curves away just where the hips are widest, which breaks up the horizontal line and looks relaxed.
A straight hem runs level all the way round. It looks crisp and modern, and it shows a printed or embroidered border at its best, because the border can run straight. On fuller hips it needs two things: enough ease at the hip so the hem hangs straight down rather than flaring out at the sides, and slits placed so the panels can separate.
Do side slits make hips look bigger?
No, not when they start in the right place. Problems come from slits that are too short. If a knee-length kameez has slits that open only a little way above the hem, the fabric across the hips has nowhere to go, so it strains, creases horizontally and kicks out at the sides when you sit or walk. That is what makes hips look wider.
A slit that opens at, or slightly above, the fullest part of the hip lets each panel fall straight over the curve. Very high slits that start near the waist show more trouser at the hip; they look elegant over slim trousers, but if you prefer more cover, keep the opening close to the hip line. The side slits page compares low, hip-height and high slits.
Length, flare and what goes underneath
A few combinations tend to work well over fuller hips.
- Mid-thigh to knee length: ends below the widest point, so no line crosses it.
- A gentle A-line: a slight flare from the underarm skims the hips instead of gripping them. Our A-line vs straight article compares the two cuts.
- Borders placed low: a heavy border at knee level draws the eye down; the same border at the hip line adds visual width there.
- Straight trousers or a shalwar: a moderate leg below the kameez keeps the outline balanced, where a very tight trouser can make the hips look wider by contrast.
What to tell us
Give your full hip measurement and how far below your waist it sits, then say where you want the slits to start, measured up from the hem, and whether you want a curved or straight hem. The shalwar kameez measuring guide shows where to take each figure. We confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote. Order through custom stitching and start a quote with your measurements and a photo of a hem you like.
Common questions
How high should side slits be on a kameez for wide hips?
On a knee-length kameez, slits that open at or a few centimetres above the fullest point of the hip usually hang best. Measure the distance from the hem up to that point and give it with your order.
Is a high-low hem good for a pear shape?
It can be. A longer back covers the seat and the shorter front keeps the outfit light. Make sure the shortest point at the front still ends below the fullest part of the hips.
Does a border on the hem make hips look wider?
Only if it sits at the hip line. A border on a knee-length hem draws the eye down to the knee, which is why longer kameez carry borders so comfortably.
