Embroidery and fancy work · 4 October 2026 · 3 min read
How to tell good quality embroidery on a suit
How to tell good quality embroidery on a suit or unstitched pack: check the back, density, puckering, symmetry and materials, and what to agree before stitching.
InspirationThe short answer
To tell good quality embroidery, turn the fabric over and look at the back, then check five things on the front: the fills cover the cloth completely, the fabric around the work lies flat, the motifs are symmetrical and straight, the edges are crisp, and any sequins, mirrors or metal are securely held. Those checks take a minute in a shop or from a close-up photo, and they tell you far more than a label or a price. When buying online, ask the seller for a daylight photo of the reverse as well as the front.
Whether you are buying an embroidered unstitched suit or planning embroidery on a new outfit, here is what each check means.
Start with the back
The back of embroidery shows how it was made. Machine work has an even layer of white or matching bobbin thread under every motif, often with a stiff backing trimmed close; hand work shows small, slightly varied stitches and secured ends. Either is fine. What you do not want is long loose threads, more than a centimetre or so, that will catch on jewellery and pull the front out of shape, or untrimmed backing that will scratch. Our guide to machine or hand embroidery explains when each technique is the better choice.
Density and coverage
In a filled petal or leaf, the stitches should sit close enough that no base fabric shows through, and outlines should meet the fills cleanly without gaps. Stitch length should look even. Denser is not always better, though: embroidery so thick that the fabric feels like card will be stiff to wear and can crack or pucker in the wash. Good work balances coverage with softness, and the right balance depends on the fabric.
The fabric around the work
Hold the piece up and look along it. Ripples, puckers or a wavy border mean the thread was pulled too tight or the fabric was not stabilised, and that distortion rarely presses out. Check for needle holes around the edges of motifs on fine fabric, and that the embroidery follows the straight grain, especially on borders. A border embroidered off grain will twist when stitched to the hem. Our guide to judging an unstitched suit covers the base fabric itself.
Symmetry, placement and materials
A few final checks separate careful work from rushed work.
- Symmetry: the left and right sleeves, and the two sides of a neckline motif, should match.
- Placement: a neckline piece should be centred and big enough for the neckline you want; see our article on using the pieces in your pack.
- Thread: even sheen, no fraying, and colours that pass a quick damp-cloth test for bleeding.
- Metallic work: an even finish without dull or peeling areas.
- Sequins, beads and mirrors: each one held firmly, with mirror edges covered by stitches.
What to agree before your outfit is made
When embroidery is part of an outfit we stitch, or work on your own fabric or garment, the details are agreed in writing first: the level, the placement and a reference photo, as explained in design approval. What is possible on your fabric and design is confirmed in your written quote. If the finished order does not match the agreed design through our mistake, tell us no later than 7 days after delivery and we correct or remake it without charge for the work; you pay the postage both ways.
Our custom embroidery page explains both routes, the USA page covers ordering from America, and you can request a quote whenever you are ready.
Common questions
How can I tell if embroidery is hand made?
Look at the back and compare repeats. Hand embroidery shows small variations from motif to motif and secured thread ends, while machine embroidery repeats exactly and has an even layer of bobbin thread underneath.
Is denser embroidery always better quality?
No. Good coverage matters, but embroidery that is too dense makes the fabric stiff and can pucker in the wash. The right density depends on the fabric and where the work sits.
What causes puckering around embroidery?
Usually thread pulled too tight, a fabric that was not stabilised during stitching, or a thread and fabric that shrink differently. Pressing from the back can help a little, but deep puckers rarely disappear.
