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The Gilded Seam: Custom Women’s Stitching

Fit, measuring and alterations · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read

Kameez neck too small to get over your head?

Neckline too small to get your head through? The opening must be bigger than your head unless it has a slit, button or zip. How to measure and which opening to pick.

Woman in a lightly embroidered taupe kameez with a pink dupatta, standing by a wooden wall in daylightInspiration

The opening has to pass your head

A kameez neckline must measure more around its edge than the widest route around your head, or the kameez will not go on, because woven fabric does not stretch to help. Round necks that sit close to the base of the neck, band collars and high necks are usually smaller than that, so they need an opening: a slit at the front, a button at the back or a concealed zip.

Wide or deep necklines, such as a V-neck or a generous round neck, are normally large enough to pass the head on their own.

How to check the size

Measure around your head at its widest, over the forehead and the fullest part of the back of the head, and allow a little extra for hair, a hair tie or make-up. That is roughly the smallest neckline edge that will pass without an opening. Then measure the edge of the neckline you want, or the neck of a kameez you like, by standing the tape on its edge and following the curve all the way round.

If the neckline edge is smaller than your head figure, plan an opening. If it is only just bigger, an opening still makes dressing easier and saves the neckline from being stretched each time you pull it on.

Openings that solve it

Each has its own look; ask for the one you want in your quote, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design.

  • A front slit: a short opening at centre front, left open, tied, or closed with a hook or button. The classic answer; see the round neck with slit.
  • A placket: a buttoned strip at the front, longer than a slit, which turns the opening into a feature. Kurta plackets and buttons shows the variations.
  • A back button and loop: a small slit at the back neck closed with one button. Invisible from the front, which suits embroidered necklines.
  • A concealed zip at the back or along the shoulder seam, for a smooth line on high necks and band collars.

Band collars and high necks

A band collar or a high mandarin neck sits close to the neck by design, so it always needs an opening. The collar itself also needs a comfortable neck size: you should be able to slip a finger between collar and neck. Collar styles for kurtas compares the shapes.

Embroidered necklines need the most planning, because dense work around the neck makes the edge stiff and less forgiving. A back opening keeps the front embroidery unbroken.

What to send

Through Send Your Design you can attach a picture of the neckline and say which opening you prefer. Include your head measurement, your neck at its base, the front neck depth you want and a line such as “high round neck; please add a back button opening”. Start a design quote, and the details are agreed in writing before cutting.

Common questions

Will a neckline stretch over my head?

Knitted fabrics stretch enough, but most kameez fabrics are woven and do not. A woven neckline that is too small strains the seam or tears rather than stretching.

Which opening is least visible?

A back button and loop, or a concealed zip at the back or shoulder, keeps the front clean. A front slit or placket shows, but it is part of the traditional look.

Does a boat neck need an opening?

Usually not, because a boat neck runs wide towards the shoulders and its edge is long. If the boat neck you want is narrow, measure the edge to be sure.

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Ready when you are

Put it into practice

Send us your measurements, design images or fabric photos and we’ll send you a written quote.

No commitment until you approve your written quote.