Made-to-measure women’s shirts: what to ask for

Why shirts gape at the bust

Ready-made shirts assume a set relationship between bust, waist and shoulder. If your bust is fuller than that assumption, a shirt that sits correctly on your shoulders strains at the chest, and the front pulls open between two buttons. Going up a size closes the gap and leaves the shoulders, sleeves and waist too big.

A shirt cut to measure deals with the problem in three ways:

• Enough width at the full bust. The front is cut from your actual measurement with ease added, so the cloth is not under tension.
• Shaping that puts room where it is needed. Bust darts from the side seam, or long seams running down the front, give depth at the bust without making the waist baggy.
• A button at the fullest point. Buttons are spaced so that one sits level with the fullest part of the bust, where the pull is strongest. A hidden press stud between two buttons is another thing to ask for.

A checklist: collar, cuffs, hem and back

Decide these before you write, or send a photo that shows them clearly.

• Collar. A pointed collar on a stand is the classic. A band collar, with no fold-down part, is softer and sits flat under a scarf or hijab. Our collar guide shows the shapes.
• Front. Visible buttons, or a concealed front that hides them under a flap for a cleaner line.
• Cuffs. A buttoned cuff with a short opening lets you roll the sleeve. A plain hemmed sleeve is simpler, and three-quarter length avoids the question.
• Hem. A curved hem, longer at front and back and higher at the sides, stays tucked and looks finished when worn out. A straight hem with short side vents suits a boxier shirt.
• Back. A yoke across the shoulders with a small pleat beneath gives room to reach forward. Two long back darts make the shirt follow the waist instead.
• Length. Say whether it should end at the high hip, cover the seat or sit between the two.

The measurements that matter most

Bust, waist and hips come first, taken as the size guide shows. For a shirt, three more make the difference.

• Shoulder width, from one shoulder point to the other across the back. It sets where the sleeve seam sits.
• Sleeve length, from the shoulder point to the wrist bone with the elbow slightly bent, so the cuff still reaches when you move.
• Upper arm, around the fullest part, so the sleeve is not tight when you bend your arm.

Fabric and ordering

Shirts are usually made in plain-woven cotton such as poplin, in lawn or cambric, or in linen. Crisp cotton holds a collar well. Lawn is lighter and, in pale colours, may need a camisole beneath. Linen creases but stays cool. The cambric and linen guides describe how each behaves. If you own a shirt that sits well on your shoulders, measuring it flat is a useful cross-check; see measuring clothes that fit you.

You can send your own fabric with Stitching Only or ask us to supply an agreed fabric. Either way, send a photo of the shirt you want with your measurements and the checklist above. One shirt is enough for an order, and nothing is cut until the design and measurements are agreed in writing.