Resham or zari: thread or metallic embroidery?

What each one is

Resham means silk, and resham embroidery was originally worked in silk thread. Today much of it uses viscose or polyester threads with a silky sheen, often called art silk, which come in hundreds of colours and behave in much the same way.

Zari is metallic thread. Traditional zari was made by wrapping a fine flattened wire of silver, sometimes gilded, around a silk core. Most zari now is imitation, using copper wire or a metallised polyester film, which is lighter and less costly to make, and the polyester kinds resist tarnish. Zari is used both for weaving borders into fabric and for embroidery.

Side by side

The practical differences show up the moment you wear and wash them.

• Look: resham gives colour and a soft sheen; zari gives a bright metallic glint in gold, silver, copper or antique tones.
• Feel: resham is soft and flexible. Zari is firmer, and the back of dense metallic work can feel scratchy on bare skin.
• Weight: resham is light. Heavy zari work adds noticeable weight to lawn or chiffon.
• Climate: resham suits hot weather and long days; dense zari can feel warm and stiff.
• Washing: resham usually tolerates gentle hand washing, though deep colours can bleed. Zari prefers careful hand washing or dry cleaning, as water, sweat and rough handling dull it.
• Ageing: resham may fade a little in strong sun. Zari, especially older silver-based kinds, can tarnish or darken over time.

Matching the work to the fabric

Resham sits comfortably on almost anything, from lawn and cambric to khaddar and linen. Zari looks richest on fabrics with some body, such as raw silk, organza, velvet or a firm chiffon with lining, and it needs support behind dense areas so the cloth does not pucker. For bare-skin areas like the neckline and inner sleeve, a lining stops metallic work rubbing; our article on embroidery and lining explains how.

For seasonal choices, see embroidery for hot and cold climates.

Asking for thread or metallic work

Specific techniques are not promised in advance, because what suits depends on the fabric and design. Tell us the occasion, whether you lean towards soft colour, shine or a mix, and send a reference photo through custom embroidery. If you are customising one of our designs, use a customise quote and choose the embroidery level there. We confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in your written quote.