Embroidery and lining: scratch, sheerness and comfort

Scratch: where it matters most

Some areas sit directly on the skin and are more likely to bother you:

• Necklines: worked panels rest on the collarbone and the back of the neck all day.
• Inner sleeves and cuffs: the wrists and forearms are sensitive, and cuffs move constantly.
• Underarms and side seams: dense work near the armhole rubs with every movement, which is one reason to avoid it.
• Yokes on abayas and kurtas: larger areas, often worn in heat, where prickly thread becomes noticeable by the afternoon.

Sheerness: show-through and shadow

On lawn, voile, chiffon, net or organza, the back of the embroidery is visible from the front as a shadow, and the carried threads between motifs can show as faint lines. A lining behind the worked area softens that and makes the design look crisper. On very sheer fabric, the colour of the lining matters as much as its presence: a skin-tone or matching lining gives a different effect from white. Our net and lace fabrics guide covers lining sheer pieces.

Full lining, half lining or a facing

There are three common approaches. A full lining covers the whole kameez or kurta, which suits sheer fabrics and richer work. A half lining covers the bodice only, which keeps the outfit cooler while protecting the worked neckline. A facing, a shaped piece of fabric sewn behind just the neckline or cuffs, covers small worked areas without lining the whole garment.

Remember that a lining changes how a light fabric moves. A full lining in a crisp cotton makes a flowing kameez hang more firmly, while a soft, lightweight lining keeps more of the original drape. If movement matters to you, say so, and we will suggest a lining weight to match.

Which one suits you depends on the fabric, the embroidery level and your climate. Our guide to whether a kameez needs lining explains the general rules, and choosing lining for an unstitched suit covers colour and quantity.

Comfort in hot climates

In heat, more layers means more warmth, so the goal is to line only where the embroidery needs it. A soft cotton lining is cooler than a synthetic one and absorbs perspiration. If you live somewhere hot and humid, mention it, and we will suggest the lightest option that still covers the reverse of the work. The climate guide for embroidery has more ideas.

On a garment you send us

Standalone embroidery on your own garment is embroidery only; adding a lining would be an alteration, which we do not offer. If the piece will be worn next to the skin, tell us when you send photos, and we will say honestly whether the work you want suits it.

For a new outfit, ask about lining in your notes on the stitching quote form. Our custom embroidery service explains how the work is planned, and customers in Malaysia can read how ordering works on the Malaysia fancy work page.