Embroidery and fancy work · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read

What is dori work? Cord embroidery explained

What is dori work? Cord laid on the fabric and stitched down in lines and loops to make a raised outline: how it looks, how it washes and where it sits on a suit.

Inspiration

Cord, laid and stitched down

Dori work is embroidery made by laying a cord on the surface of the fabric and holding it in place with small stitches that pass over it. Dori simply means cord or string in Urdu and Hindi. The cord follows a drawn design in lines, curls and loops, so the result is a raised, rounded outline that stands slightly proud of the cloth.

The way of fixing it is called couching, and it can be done by hand or by machine with a cording attachment. The cord itself may be cotton, polyester, a silky viscose or a metallic thread, and it is often the same colour as the fabric, so the pattern shows as texture rather than colour.

What it looks like

Dori work reads as drawing in relief. Typical patterns include:

Outlines: flowers, leaves and paisleys drawn as a single raised line, with the fabric showing inside.
Loops and scrolls: continuous curling lines along a border or around a neckline.
Spiral fills: rows of cord laid close together, coiled to fill a petal or a small shape.
Mixed work: cord outlines around sequins, small mirrors or flat thread fills, where the dori gives the motif a crisp edge.

How it differs from similar work

The name is used loosely, so it helps to know the neighbours. Marori work also couches a line onto fabric, but uses a twisted metallic thread and is usually worked by hand; dori is the broader term for any cord. Piping is cord wrapped in a strip of fabric and set into a seam or edge, not laid on top; our guide to piping and trims shows the difference. And the ties at the back of a kameez neckline are also called a dori, which has nothing to do with embroidery.

Flat thread embroidery fills a shape with stitches through the fabric. Dori sits on top, which is why it looks bolder from a distance and uses fewer stitches through the cloth. The types of Pakistani embroidery article places it among the other crafts.

Where it sits on an outfit

Dori work suits places where a clear outline matters: necklines, the front placket, sleeve hems, the daman and yokes. It looks especially good on medium-weight fabrics such as khaddar, cambric and linen, which hold the cord flat. On fine lawn or chiffon it needs a light backing so the cord does not pull the fabric into ripples. Our guide to where to place embroidery on a kameez helps you choose the position.

How dori work washes

Cotton and polyester cord in tonal colours copes well with a gentle wash, inside out and in a mesh bag, which puts it near the easy end of our ranking of which embroidery is easiest to care for. Its weak point is the couching stitches. If one breaks, the cord can lift into a loop that catches on bags and jewellery, so deal with a lifted loop early by pressing it back and catching it with a stitch at home. Metallic cord can tarnish or dull, and any cord flattens if pressed hard from the front, so iron from the back on a towel.

Asking for the look

If you like a corded outline, describe the look or send a photo, and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote. Say where the work should go, the cord colour against the fabric and how dense the pattern should be; our guide on describing embroidery in words gives a template. Embroidery is arranged through our custom embroidery service, and you can start a design quote here.

Common questions

Is dori work done by hand or machine?

Both. Hand couching gives slightly irregular, softer lines; machine cording is faster and very even. From a distance they look similar, and close up the evenness usually tells you which it is.

Is dori work heavy?

It is light compared with beads or wire work. A full neckline adds a little firmness to the area but very little weight, which is why it suits everyday kurtas as well as dressier outfits.

Does dori work scratch?

Soft cotton or viscose cord does not. Metallic cord can feel firm on the inside of a neckline, and a facing or lining behind the work makes it more comfortable.

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