Embroidery and fancy work · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read

Woven borders: banarsi and jamawar patti on a suit

A banarsi border on a suit is a woven brocade strip, not embroidery. How banarsi and jamawar patti differ from embroidered borders in weight, fraying and care.

Inspiration

Woven on the loom, then sewn on

A banarsi or jamawar patti is a strip of woven brocade sewn onto a suit as a border, usually at the daman, the cuffs, the trouser hems or the edges of a dupatta. The pattern is woven into the strip on the loom with extra threads, often metallic, rather than stitched on afterwards. That makes it flatter than an embroidered border, rich in pattern for its weight, and quite different to handle.

“Patti” simply means a strip or band. Banarsi takes its name from the brocades associated with Banaras (Varanasi), and jamawar from finely patterned woven shawl cloth. In shops both names are used loosely for many kinds of brocade strip, so judge the strip in front of you rather than the label.

Banarsi and jamawar, as sellers use the names

As a rough guide, a strip sold as banarsi tends to be bright with metallic thread, often gold or silver, in floral or geometric repeats. A jamawar patti usually has a denser, all-over pattern of paisleys and flowers in several colours, sometimes with less metallic and more silky thread. Both come in narrow and wide widths.

How a woven border differs from an embroidered one

If you are choosing between the two, these are the practical differences:

Surface. Woven pattern is flat and smooth; embroidered borders can be raised and textured.
The back. Brocade has loose floats of thread on the reverse, which can snag on jewellery or scratch, so the border is usually backed or lined.
Fraying. Cut ends of a woven strip fray quickly and must be turned under or finished. An embroidered border is worked onto the garment fabric, so it has no cut ends of its own.
Shape. A woven strip is straight and fairly stiff. It sits well on a straight hem but needs small folds or joins to follow a curve.
Care. Metallic floats can catch and dull over time. Many brocade-trimmed outfits are better dry cleaned.

Where woven borders look right

Because they are straight, woven borders are easiest on a straight hem, straight sleeve cuffs, the hems of straight trousers and the long edges of a dupatta. On a curved gol daman they can still work, but the curve has to be eased with small pleats or joins, which shows more on a bold pattern. A woven border also pairs well with a plain kameez, where it becomes the main feature.

Asking for one

Lace and borders are added on outfits we stitch. If your unstitched suit already comes with a woven patti, say so when you request Stitching Only and tell us where you would like it placed. If you have a look in mind, describe it or send a photo; our lace and border guide shows the usual positions. Request a Stitching Only quote and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote.

Common questions

Does a banarsi border need to be lined?

It is a good idea. The reverse of brocade has loose threads that can catch and feel scratchy, so the border is usually backed or the garment lined behind it.

Is a woven border heavier than embroidery?

Usually lighter for the amount of pattern it gives, because the design is part of a single strip of cloth. A wide metallic brocade is still firmer than the fabric around it.

Will the metallic thread in a woven border tarnish?

Some metallic threads dull with time, moisture and perfume. Store the outfit dry, wrapped in a cotton cloth, and keep perfume off the border.

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