Collar with a V opening: what is this neckline called?

The names you are likely to meet

No single name is official, and the same neckline can carry a different label on each website. These are the common ones, with the context they tend to come from.

• Band collar with V-neck, or ban gala with V: the usual wording in Pakistani and Indian shops and tailoring.
• Chinese collar or Chinese gala with V: the same thing; “Chinese collar” is a common South Asian name for a stand collar.
• Split or notched mandarin collar: the Western pattern name. A mandarin collar is another word for a band collar, and split or notched describes the gap at the front.
• V-placket or notch neck: used when the opening is the main feature and the collar is very low.
• Johnny collar: sometimes used for a related shape, where a fold-over collar sits on a V opening with no buttons. It lies flat rather than standing.

How it differs from its neighbours

A plain band collar usually meets at the centre front and closes with a placket and buttons, so it reads as buttoned up even when the top button is open. A V-neck has the same V shape but no standing collar at all. A round neck with a slit has a flat, faced edge with a straight slit rather than a standing band. The V-slit band collar sits between them: structured at the back and sides like a collar, open at the front like a V.

How deep the V usually goes

Depth is measured from the base of the front neck, where the collar starts, down to the point of the V. As a rough guide, a shallow notch of about 5 to 8 cm (2 to 3 inches) stays modest, needs no fastening and works with a hijab or for the office. A medium V of about 10 to 13 cm (4 to 5 inches) opens onto the upper chest and looks more relaxed. Anything deeper usually needs a hook, a button and loop or a press stud partway down to stop it opening further as you move.

These are typical figures, not rules: your neck, your bust and the fabric all change how a V sits, so your own measurement decides. The easiest way to choose is to measure the opening on a kurta you like, or hold a tape at the neck and look in the mirror. Our measuring help explains the other neck measurements.

Details to put in your notes

Beyond the depth, a few choices change the character of this neckline. Mention whichever matter to you, and add a photo if you have one.

• Collar height: a low band of about 2 to 3 cm (around 1 inch) is easy to wear; a taller one looks more formal.
• Collar ends: square, rounded or cut away at an angle where they meet the V.
• Width at the top of the V: collar ends almost touching, or set clearly apart.
• Fastening: fully open, or closed partway with a hook, loop or small button.
• Finish: plain, piped in a contrast colour, or edged with a little lace or embroidery.
• Structure: the band needs light interfacing to stand, which suits cambric, cotton, khaddar and linen better than chiffon.

Ordering one

Band collar is one of the necklines on our quote form; the V opening is a detail you add in your notes or show in a photo through Send Your Design. Our guide to collar styles for kurtas covers other collars if you are still deciding. We confirm what is possible on your fabric and design in the written quote, so start a quote with your photo.