Embroidery and fancy work · 8 October 2026 · 3 min read

Embroidery on raw silk and cotton silk

Embroidery on raw silk and cotton silk: why these firm, lustrous fabrics carry richer work, and how to deal with needle marks, water spots and pressing.

Inspiration

A strong base for fuller work

Raw silk and cotton silk are both good fabrics to embroider. Their firm weave holds denser stitching and metallic thread without much puckering, and their soft sheen sets off thread work well, which is why they are so often chosen for Eid and evening gatherings. The things to watch are needle holes that cannot be hidden if work is unpicked, water marks on silk and too much heat when pressing.

Both names are used loosely by sellers. “Raw silk” usually means a silk or silk-look fabric with a slubby, textured surface, and “cotton silk” a smoother blend that may or may not contain real silk. Our guide to cotton silk and raw silk explains the fabrics themselves.

Why they carry richer embroidery

A fabric with body supports the weight of the stitches, so the work lies flat instead of dragging the cloth into ripples. Compare that with fine lawn, which suits lighter work. The slight lustre of these fabrics also suits silk thread and metallic accents, which can look harsh on a matt cotton.

Raw silk: the firmer of the two. Takes heavy borders, dense neckline work and metallic thread well. The slubs give texture, so very fine motifs can look a little broken where a slub crosses them.
Cotton silk: softer and smoother. Shows fine thread work crisply and suits light to medium embroidery. Very dense work can make it stiff in places.

Needle marks and unpicking

Silk fibres do not close up around a needle hole the way a soft cotton often does. If embroidery on raw silk is unpicked, the holes usually stay visible. That makes it important to agree the design, the placement and the size of every motif before work starts, rather than adjusting it afterwards. It is one reason our design approval step comes before any cutting or stitching.

Water spots and stains

Silk can show a ring where a drop of water has dried, and a spill dabbed at with a wet cloth can leave a larger mark than the spill itself. Cotton silk is less sensitive but not immune. Many embroidered raw silk outfits are labelled for dry cleaning only, and that is usually the safer choice when there is metallic thread or dense work.

Pressing without damage

Press on the reverse, over a thick towel so the embroidery sinks in rather than being flattened. Use a dry iron on a low to medium silk setting with a pressing cloth, and avoid spraying water or using bursts of steam on raw silk. Let each section cool before moving the garment.

Ordering an embroidered silk outfit

You can ask for the fabric to be supplied as Fabric + Stitching, with the fabric agreed in your quote, or send your own fabric for an outfit or for custom embroidery on its own once we confirm it is suitable. Our page on choosing fabric helps with the first step. Request a Fabric + Stitching quote and we confirm what is possible on your fabric and design.

Common questions

Is embroidered raw silk too warm for summer?

It is warmer than lawn or cotton and less breathable when densely worked. It suits evenings, air-conditioned venues and cooler seasons better than hot daytime events.

Can I wash an embroidered raw silk suit at home?

Only if the care label allows it, and even then by hand in cool water. Water marks and colour changes are common on silk, so dry cleaning is the safer option for embroidered pieces.

Does gold thread look better on raw silk or cotton silk?

Both suit it. Raw silk gives gold a richer, more textured setting, while cotton silk makes fine gold lines look sharp and clean. Choose by the look of the fabric you prefer.

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