Which neckline suits a fuller bust?

Getting depth and width right

Think about where the neckline ends and how far it spreads. A good working range is a point roughly between the collarbone and the top of the bust, adjusted to your comfort and how much coverage you like.

• Depth: for a V-neck, a medium depth is the usual sweet spot. A very shallow V barely breaks the surface, and a very deep one pulls open as you move.
• Width: keep it moderate. A neckline that spreads too wide toward the shoulders slides off and makes straps show. A narrow opening looks longer and stays put.
• [Sweetheart](/styles/necklines/sweetheart-neck): the two curves follow the bust line, so it suits a fuller bust well, but it needs an accurate bust measurement so the curves sit where your shape is.
• Scoop: gentler than a V. A deeper, narrower scoop works better than a wide, shallow one.
• Wrap or [angrakha](/styles/cuts/angrakha) front: the diagonal crossover is a natural V and adjusts slightly to your shape.

Stopping a neckline from gaping

Gaping happens when the neckline is cut for a flatter chest than yours, so the edge has spare length that lifts away from the body. On a made-to-measure kameez it is solved at the cutting stage rather than with pins later.

The fixes are general dressmaking practice: an accurate bust and upper-chest measurement, bust darts on a shaped kameez so the fabric goes over the bust instead of hanging from it, a facing or lining that keeps the edge firm, and in some cases a small hook or a discreet stitch at the base of a deep V. Our armhole and shoulder guide explains how the upper body measurements work together.

Where embellishment should sit, and what adds bulk

Embroidery and trims attract the eye, so put them where you want attention. Work that follows the neckline edge itself, runs down a placket, or sits on the sleeves and hem keeps the bust area clean. A heavy embroidered yoke straight across the chest, a large motif on the bust or a gathered panel there all add visual width.

• Add bulk: high crew necks, tall band collars, wide boat necks, pleats or gathers across the bust, big pockets on the chest, thick horizontal bands.
• Keep it calm: a slim edging along a V, vertical lines of work, embellished cuffs, a decorated hem or daman.
• Fabric: smooth, medium-weight fabrics fall cleanly. Stiff or very shiny fabric exaggerates curves, and very clingy fabric shows every seam.

Putting it in your order

Give us your bust, upper chest and under-bust measurements, plus your preferred front neck depth measured from the base of the throat. If you are not sure, choose “Advise me” and tell us what coverage you want. Through custom stitching we agree the neckline and any embroidery in the written quote, and the silhouette guide helps with the overall cut. Request your quote when you are ready.